I park the reference tracks right in the session and keep them muted until I need them. Then when Iām half way through the mix I start toggling them on and off.
Thats the only way I know of to get a hold of a 44.1 or 48k wave file.
I also rip audio from DVDās just to see how the mix was distributed and panned into the different speakers. I use those as references in the same way.
Same with video games. Strait out of the HDMI port of my Xbox, through a decoder, and into a digital input in the DAW.
But hell no, Iām not buying a brand new CD for $15 if its something I can find on Amazon for 99 cents. Same with movies.
lol. so in other words there is no way for me to have a decent ref track on my computer within the hour? lol
I have some decent stuff on CD but nothing really modern. Probably the most āmodernā production I have is a Jorn CD from 2008. Its got some good sounds etc, dunno if anyone would consider it āgreatā though. of coruse if I could make my stuff sound as good id be somewhat happy (for 2 minutes anyway)
Thatās not what Iām saying. Iām saying that I prefer a hi res wave file. And I just proved that I have a reference monitoring system where I can clearly and consistently hear the difference between the two.
What I am not saying is that Mp3ās are insufficient for this purpose. What I am not saying is that they are not decent. Nor am I claiming that I am above using them myself.
The question is if I can hear the difference then why am I still ok using mp3ās? Right? The answer is because though I can hear the differences, the differences are minor enough to where a hi quality mp3 still adequately serves its purpose as a reference track.
yeah i gotcha. I seriously doubt my ear is currently sophisticated enough to hear the difference anyway
What I might do is order some Cds for the car, stuff like Chevelle and maybe other stuff mixed by same dude (joe barresi) and in the meantine i might buy a few mp3 just for the heck of it to have something to play with today
JJ, you could also buy a single mp3 from, say, Amazon and then after you d/l, pull up its properties and see what bitrate is listed in the Details, as described above. That way youāre out only a buck, and if itās only 256kbps or less, youāll know your answer.
I think this kind of information is not heavily touted (i.e. they donāt just post the kbps value as a matter of course) on music purchasing websites because so few people care or can tell the difference. @Jonathan and the rest of us are most definitely not the typical music consumers, the vast majority of whom donāt have audiophile-quality playback gear.
When I took that test on my studio-grade cans I still missed one, if memory serves (itās been many months). Drove home the point that ā especially with my deteriorated hearing ā I canāt always tell the diff between 320 kbps mp3 and wav, when theyāre at the same depth of 16 bits. But as I wrote about in my long post I linked to, thereās a world of difference with 24 vs 16 bit depth material.
That said, I wouldnāt bother using 24 bit depth tracks for referencing because I know that hardly anyone uses that, and Iād be holding my stuff up to a standard that is artificially high. Now if I DID use 24-bit reference material and got it to match real well with my mixes, then in principle any such mix rendered at only 16 bits ought to pass with flying colors.